BIRDING IN THE HILLS OF MOUNT ABU
BY
J.K. TIWARI
jugalt2000@yahoo.com
The pleasure of birding in the hills of Mount Abu attracted me to this small hill station in Rajasthan. Five years of my Schooling days were spent in the obscure hills of Abu some 25 years back. I am very fond of this place and have seen the gradual decline of its natural heritage.
You reach the hills of Abu after traveling in desert country. In the otherwise semi desert sparsely vegetated terrain the giant mountain of Abu attracts your attention if you happen to travel by train from Delhi/Jaipur to Ahemdabad. Alight at Abu Road and get a bus or a taxi 26 km away is this oasis awaiting for keen and amateur birders to explore its rolling grasslands, thick forest, Lantana weed country, high altitude wetlands.
Mount Abu in Rajasthan, India is a detached hill of Aravali range between 24 ’31 ’ and 24’ 43 N latitude and 72 ‘38’ and 72’53 ‘ E longitude. It rises suddenly from the flat plains like a rocky island lying of the sea-coast of a continent. The Mt. Abu range is 1219 m above the Sea level about 19 km in length and 5-8 km in breadth. The hill range of Aravali is called Archianth, the rocks does not show any fossil formations.
Mount Abu has a rich floral biodiversity starting with xeromorphic subtropical thorn forest at the foot hills to subtropical evergreen forest along water courses and valleys at higher altitudes. These forests consist of 112 plant families with 449 genera and 820 species. Of these, 663 species are dicots while 157 species are monocots. Some endemic, rare and threatened plants viz. Dicliptera abuensis, Strobillanthes callosus locally called KARA (was in flower this year Septemeber at Tiger Path), Ischaemum kingii, Convolvulus blatteri, Ceropegia odorata, and Hydrilla polysperma are found here. Some endangered species included in the Red Data Book of I.U.C.N. for example, Anogeissus sericea, Begonia tricocarpa, Crotalaria filipes, Indigofera constrata also exist here. Mount Abu is the only place in Rajasthan where one can observe a variety of orchids. The place is also rich in bryophytes and algae. Three species of wild roses and 16 species of ferns, some of which are quite rare, have also been reported from here. The South -West part of the sanctuary is rich in bamboo Bambusa vulgaris
A variety of fauna including highly rare, threatened and endangered species are found in this sanctuary. The past history of Mount Abu indicates the presence of Lion (last recorded in 1872) and Tiger (last reported in 1970). Presently, the Panther is the apex predator. Other animals found here are Sambhar (obnly 30 left), Jungle Cat, Small Indian Civet, Wolf, Hyaena, Jackal, Indian Fox, Common Langoor,Wild Boar, Pangolin, Ratel, Common Mongoose, Indian Hare Porcupine, Hedgehog, etc. The sanctuary provides an ideal habitat for Sloth Bear. The population of Sloth Bear is increasing regularly as it can be seen while going through the forests or motoring on the road. A species of Palm Civet is observed commonly in the hills of Mount Abu, it is interesting to see the Palm Civets in Mount Abu, as per the literature they are not to be seen in Rajasthan and Gujarat.
The presence of a great number of birds makes Mount Abu a paradise for bird watchers. More than 246 bird species have been recorded from the sanctuary. Four species of Munias are found here. The Green Munia Amandava formosa is sighted commonly in the Wildlife Sanctuary and adjoining areas. Most of the sightings are in open grasslands bordered by Lantana camara (an exotic weed) . A few sightings are from the human habitation areas. The agricultural areas are some of the favorite habitats for the Green Munia.
Green Munia Amandava formosa is a Globally threatened species endemic and resident in India. Butler described Green Munia as a common species at Mount Abu, he did not come across this species in the plains and described it as a Abu specialty. I have seen Parus nuchalis the White-naped Tit near Balaram reserved Forest and Jethi river area about 80 kms from Mount Abu. I will not be surprised to see this endemic and endangered species near Revdar, or at Andra, but for sure they are not to be seen at Mt. Abu, perhaps they do not ascend to this altitude.
Devarshi and Trigunayat (1989) listed 82 species of birds from Mount Abu seen during their various short surveys. They have surprisingly missed this species in their list. Ishwar Prakash and Pratap Singh (1995) ; in their checklist of 136 species from Mount Abu mention having seen one pair of Green Munia at Oriya village.
Satish Kumar Sharma and Chandresh Lodhiya (2004) ; in their online checklist of birds 246 species from Mt. Abu (delhibird The Northern India Bird network) have mentioned Green Munia to be found in Mount Abu.
During my search for the White-naped Tit Parus nuchalis in October 1996, I came across the Green Munia at Mount Abu and Taranga hills (Tiwari & Varu 1999).
A detailed study of status and distribution of Green Munia was started from May 2004 at the Mount Abu Wildlife Sanctuary and surrounding area. I have seen maximum 67 Green Munia in Sunrise valley. One nest was found in October 2004.
Butler in his paper “Notes on the Avifauna of Mount Abu mention the forest in Mount Abu as dense and impenetrable (Lantana weed does not find any mention in his paper), the present scenario is different, the weeds like Lantana and Parthenium have formed impenetrable thickets. The local flora competes with the weed to grow, secondary growth or addition in the floral density is not healthy. There are 16 villages in the 328 sq. kms Mt. Abu Wildlife Sanctuary (notified in 1960), the cattle roam helter scalter al over the Sanctuary, human movement and impact is evident in almost all parts except in some very steppe slopes. I strongly believe that the Lantana is now such a serious problem that if you start eradicating thoughtlessly, it will lead to serious soil erosion problems in Mt.Abu. The weed is now a part of the ecosystem. The frugivorous birds like Red-vented Bulbuls, Red Whiskered Bulbuls profusely feed on the Lantana seed. The most common species one will come across in Abu hill is the Red Vented Bulbul. The birds help in dispersal of Lantana seeds.
Kiran Chavda is an eminent naturalist and a herpetologist of Mt.Abu, he had made a team of nature lovers who will receive call up on sighting a snake in human habitation area, they will catch the snakes and release them back safely in the nature. Many a times 6-7 snake calls are received by them in a day. Kiran Chavda thinks that, Lantana thickets help in conservation of woody trees as they form so thick and impenetrable patches that wood-cutters and tree-poachers can not reach up to woody trees. I agree with Kiran. Forest fires are often reported in the Aravali hills, many a times the cause of fire is human-ignited. “Magra Sanan meaning bathing the forest with fire up on a wish ful-filled of a local tribal they set a patch of forest on fire is reported a common cause of forest fire.
I was greatly surprised to have come across at least 50 dropping of Sloth Bears full of Lantana seeds, The sloth bear sightings in Mt. Abu is common, they many time enter in the human habitations and there are a few cases of confrontation with tribal and local people. Bears in Abu hills help in dispersal of Lantana seeds. It was November 8 th I was on a long trek to Rishikesh –Jalandhar mountain from Arna village, Kiran Chavda and Rajendra Jadeja were with me. The trek from Arna to Jalandhar was delightful, we encountered some 20 fresh droppings of Sloth bear full of Ziziphus and Timru seeds. I could not believe my eyes when we reached to a prime Bamboo forest and semi deciduous forest near Jalandhar mountain where there were no Lantana at all. This forest is free from cattle grazing and human impact of deforestation.
A few meters ahead of us we heard some sound in the Bamboo thickets, we all stood holding our breath, there were two Sloth Bears, they were reluctant to change their path, we changed our route and admired the beauty of the beast in Bamboo thickets.
I could not climb the Jalandhar mountain due to my health problem, Rajendra Jadeja and his team continued to ascend the hills, they were very lucky to see a Leopard a few meters away from them. The hills of Mount Abu is best for watching Bears and leopard. It seems the favorite prey of leopard in Abu hills is Hanuman Langurs and stray dogs. They also come to scavange at the open garbage dump one the way to Achalgarh.
Our team continued to descend the hill to our destination Rishikesh at the foothills of Abu. On our way we saw a Mongoose, Grey Jungle Fowl, Scimitar babbler, saw a Honey Buzzard soaring, Crested Serpent Eagle, many troops of Hanuman Langurs. Interestingly the Hanuman Langurs have All male band troops (un-described by the earlier workers), The uni-male bisexual troops are common and described the Primatologist.
1.5 Million Tourist enters the hill station of Mt. Abu every year. There is no waste water treatment and garbage recycling plant at Mt. Abu. Revenue generated is quite large, which can help in erecting such eco friendly garbage recycling units. I think the hills of Abu are a big attraction for the tourist and their numbers will keep on increasing, what Mt. Abu seriously need is a proper plan to handle the human waste and to regulate the polluted vehicular traffic.
I remember Mt. Abu (1975-80) when I was a student there , there were hardly 20 hotels, now there are 185 hotels. The Oasis of Mt. Abu in otherwise semi desert country of Rajasthan is unique, it requires urgent attention of Wildlife managers and administrators. I have been visiting Mt. Abu since 1991 to watch birds. Now since May 2004, I am stationed here and studying the birds. I have so far photographed 120 species of birds and seen about 200 species.
There are two distinct vegetation zones depending on the amount of rainfall received (Anadra hills fall in the rain shadow side receiving annual precipitation of 310 mm. The rain fed side is from Abu road to Talethi and above (rainfall about 600-700 mm). The vegetation type changes as you ascend the hill. There are a few wetlands which does not support high density of waders and waterfowl.
Upper and lower Kodra dam, Nakki lake, wetland near the Alwar Palace, wetland near Safari cottages on the way to Achalgarh and many small check dams support a few species of Ducks and waders. The resident Red-wattled lapwing is omnipresent. River Terns can be seen some times at Nakki lake.
The Crested Serpent Eagle and Honey Buzzards are seen near Chippaberi to Achalgarh and mini nakki lake area. Flocks of Eurasian Hobby enter the Abu hill in October and can be seen commonly al over the Abu. Shikra is also seen in dense groves of Gaumukh to Achalgarh and Chippaberi. Crested hawk Eagle was once seen on the way to Ganesh point.
The Chippaberi area is a transitional zone in the Abu hill, the vegetation type and the birds seen here are phenomenal. The Grey Jungle Fowl and Red Spur Fowl come to feed on the grains thrown there by the forest guard stationed.
The Treepies, Pigmy Woodpeckers, Ioras, White-eye, White-bellied Drongos. Honey Buzzard, Shikra, Jungle Crows,( Koel not seen at Mt. Abu heights), Common Wood-shrike , Alexandrine Parakeet are a few species to be seen at Chippaberi and surrounding areas.
Tiger path (the old cart track is a delightful area 7 kms walk from St. Marry School to Arna village. One will come across pristine forest, a lot of butterflies (at least 15 species) may be a python, Green and Brown Whip Snakes, Green Keel Back and Trinket snakes, hear the calls of Grey Jungle Fowls and Red Spur Fowls, Treepies, Shikra, Hobby, Crested Serpent Eagle, in winters a variety of Warblers and Flycatchers including the most colorful Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher and Rufous morph of paradise Flycatcher.
Very interestingly there are no House Crows, Bank Mynas, Common Babblers, Koels, Ring Doves, at the height of Mt. Abu. You can very well see them just a 26 kms away in the plains, of course the Koels have ascended up to Chippaberi. There are no Desi Neem Azadirchta indica trees at Mt. Abu, even another curse Prosopis juliflora Mesquite could not ascend up to the hills of Mt. Abu, it is important to mention here that the mesquite have spread up to 7 kms from Abu road towards the Mt. Abu, the further spread should be checked by proper weed eradication plans by the Forest Department.
The Vultures have almost disappeared from Mt. Abu, the hills near Trevor’s tank used to be the best haunt for the Longbilled Vultures nesting. In my six months stay and work in Abu hills , I have seen the Scavanger Vultures three times- a single individual and White-rumped Vultures 3 birds soaring near the sunset point.
The common birds which you will come across Abu hills are brown-headed Barbets, Jungle Babblers, Red vented Bulbuls, Red-whiskered Bulbuls, Black-rumped Flameback, Common Iora, Coucal, White-throated Kingfishers, Plum-headed Parakeet (AVM School area, Jalandhar mountain area), Spotted Dove, Treepie, Jungle Crow, Brahminy Starling, grey Tits, Black-lored Tits, Ashy Wren Warblers, Franklin’s Prinia, Yellow-eyed Babbler etc. etc.
It is worth mentioning here about the Abu specialty, the White-browed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinchus schisticeps is seen in the Babmboo forest of Mt. Abu, this species one will not come across in the plains of Rajasthan. The Euraisan Black Bird Turdus merula nigropileus is also unique to Abu hills, I have seen two nests (the picture is in the folder).
I would not hesitate to mention that Mt. Abu is the only place where I found birds very timid, not confiding at all, the photography of birds in Abu hills require an extra patience and lot of time. The disturbed nature of birds is due to excessive human and vehicular disturbance (1.5 million tourist and chain of honking vehicles).
The best bird trials in Abu hills could be Kulgarh nullah trail, tiger trail, Balley’s walk, Trevor’s tank to Mini Nakki lake trail, Gurushikhar to oriya trek, Gaumukh to Gautum rishi trail (6 kms), Ganesh point to Anadra trail, Arna to Rishikesh trail (morning –evening program). Sunset point area is an ideal place for watching birds. One must be in a group to go out birding in Abu hills. There are reports of tribal attacking and looting the foreign and domestic tourist in Abu hills. One must keep in mind the presence of Sloth bears and Leopards in the forest.
The Green munia sightings are very encouraging in the hills of Abu, life-list makers and serious birders will surely find Mt. Abu hills a delightful and memorable experience.
